Acne vulgaris
A chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit presenting as comedones, papules, pustules, nodules and, in severe cases, scarring. One of the most common presentations in aesthetic practice and a frequent driver of post-inflammatory pigmentation.
Primary causes
- Follicular hyperkeratinisation — abnormal keratinocyte shedding obstructs the follicle.
- Increased sebum production driven by androgens (puberty, hormonal fluctuation, PCOS).
- Cutibacterium acnes proliferation in the obstructed, sebum-rich follicle.
- Inflammation — immune response to C. acnes and follicular rupture.
- Contributing factors: genetics, high-glycaemic diet, comedogenic products, occlusion, some medications.
Clinically proven & TGA-registered medications
| Agent | Class / clinical use | Status |
|---|---|---|
| Benzoyl peroxide | Antimicrobial / comedolytic; first-line, no resistance | OTC / TGA |
| Adapalene | Topical retinoid — comedolytic, anti-inflammatory; pairs with BPO | TGA |
| Azelaic acid 15–20% | Comedolytic, antibacterial, anti-pigment; pregnancy-safe | TGA |
| Clindamycin (topical) | Topical antibiotic — only with BPO, never monotherapy | Script |
| Clascoterone 1% (Winlevi) | Topical androgen-receptor inhibitor; TGA-registered 2024 | Script |
| Doxycycline / minocycline | Oral antibiotic, moderate–severe; time-limited | Script |
| Isotretinoin | Oral retinoid — severe/scarring/refractory; specialist, teratogenic | Specialist |
| COCP / spironolactone | Hormonal — adult-female / hormonal-pattern acne | Script |
Treatment modalities to investigate
- LED phototherapy — blue (~415 nm) targets C. acnes; red (~633 nm) anti-inflammatory; combined outperforms either alone, all Fitzpatrick types, no thermal risk.
- Topical niacinamide (vitamin B3) 4–5% — reduces sebum and inflammation; comparable to topical clindamycin without resistance.
- Salicylic / mandelic acid peels — lipophilic exfoliation; mandelic gentler in darker skin.
- Professional extractions for comedonal load.
- Post-inflammatory pigment — azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, strict photoprotection.
Cautions & contraindications
- Isotretinoin and procedures — avoid fully ablative laser and mechanical dermabrasion during and ~6 months after; document any elective resurfacing decision.
- Pregnancy — topical retinoids contraindicated; azelaic acid preferred. Isotretinoin is teratogenic.
- Antibiotic stewardship — never antibiotic monotherapy; always pair with BPO and limit duration.
- Photosensitisers (doxycycline, retinoids) — reinforce daily SPF, especially before light-based treatment.